Painting

[ides]

We just got our house yesterday . This morning I taped the bedroom that's black and this afternoon I'm going to prime it. While looking around the house I'm realizing there are two other rooms that are darkly painted too - deep grey (dining room and another bedroom). The rest of the house (living room, two bedrooms, small office, hallways, two bathrooms and kitchen) are painted light mint green and yellow and I want to paint those as well. So, I planned about two weeks to paint (one room) and clean the place while O is in school (4 1/2 days a week). Now I'm feeling totally overwhelmed since it all needs to be done and I'd prefer it to be done before we move in. I also have to pack us as well. So, what would it cost to paint a 2,000 sqft house inside? Should we just move in and do one room at a time? We don't have much extra cash at this point. We used our savings on the house and most of our excess will go to our lawyer for the next few months. Advice?

[Deebs]

I'd just do one room at a time, other than if you have a particular room with a lot of and/or very heavy furniture.

[diggitydot]

Do one room at a time and feel free to PM me or post any questions. Painting isn't tough.

As for cost, that can vary drastically by location and the amount of surface prep needed. You can have a few different painters come out and quite the job to get an idea. Quotes aren't binding.

[BonBon]

I'd just do one room at a time, other than if you have a particular room with a lot of and/or very heavy furniture.

This, and do as much as you can before you move in if you already have paint colors for whatever room decided upon. Especially O's room. Painting is one of those super easy (though it can be a pita) things you can DIY to save money. What kind of tape did you get? Things I've learned: NEVER EVER use masking tape. Blue tape comes off easy but paint still leaks no matter how carefully you apply it. Frog (it's bright green) tape is the best!! Almost zero leaks and still comes off. (expensive though!!) Try practicing cutting in with the tape but avoid getting paint ON the tape. With some practice, you'll be able to cut in without having to tape, which is expensive and takes some time. Use a good brush (I like the angled ones, and they run about $15), and clean it daily with what looks like a paint brush comb.

I'm so excited for you!!!

Admission: I kinda liked the black paint. I'll go slink off now...

[oceanchild]

Around here, I've heard $20-$30/hour for painters.

I'm planning to pay my sister about half that to paint our nursery.

[diggitydot]

If you're using latex paints (which is what almost everyone uses now), try to find nylon brushes. Nylon/polyester blends are OK, but pure nylon is best. It lays off the paint the smoothest and you get fewer brushstroke marks.

Rinse the brushes and roller covers with tap water before starting and shake out well. Damp is good, dripping wet is bad. This does two things. It helps prevent paint from imbedding in the area where the brush bristles connect to the handle and drying there, destroying your brush. It also helps remove some of the fluff from the roller cover that will annoy the shit out of you while you're painting.

The green Frog tape kicks ass. It has a coating that gels up when exposed to moisture (which is why it comes in an airtight container) that turns the paint into a solid quickly.

One thing that helps the blue tape (Painter's Tape from 3M) seal and not bleed through is to use a small putty knife to press the tape down very firmly on the edge nearest the surface to be painted.

[BonBon]

I had never heard to rinse the brushes or rollers! We should probably create a sticky somewhere with DD's painting tips.

DD, before my girls were born, my mom moved in with us and decided to finish painting my wainscoting white. She used the same brush *daily* without ever cleaning it and it left the most horrific brush marks. I was not happy. Wish I knew what her method was before she started.

[diggitydot]

If you're painting smooth surfaces that will telegraph brushstrokes, add an extender to the paint (Floetrol for latex is decent), and it will help it level nicely.

[GrayMatterWife]

We just got our house yesterday . This morning I taped the bedroom that's black and this afternoon I'm going to prime it. While looking around the house I'm realizing there are two other rooms that are darkly painted too - deep grey (dining room and another bedroom). The rest of the house (living room, two bedrooms, small office, hallways, two bathrooms and kitchen) are painted light mint green and yellow and I want to paint those as well. So, I planned about two weeks to paint (one room) and clean the place while O is in school (4 1/2 days a week). Now I'm feeling totally overwhelmed since it all needs to be done and I'd prefer it to be done before we move in. I also have to pack us as well. So, what would it cost to paint a 2,000 sqft house inside? Should we just move in and do one room at a time? We don't have much extra cash at this point. We used our savings on the house and most of our excess will go to our lawyer for the next few months. Advice?

What do you mean, "black"? You mean "black" as in the color??!! Seriously? Someone painted a room black. Good grief. You are going to have to prime the heck out of it before you can even think about painting. Two or three coats of a high quality primer, at least, I'd guess. Buy the good stuff.

I am currently in the process of painting chairrail/shadow boxing that we had installed throughout most of our hallways. It is a total PITA, but not hard. It costs primer, paint, and painting supplies. I think when it is all said and done, I'll probably have dropped maybe $250. But that is a lot cheaper than painting a whole 2000 square foot house, especially by a professional. Does your house have a lot of repair work to be done to the walls before painting can be done, or does it have a lot of trimwork? This will significantly up the cost of a professional paint job.

[diggitydot]

You are going to have to prime the heck out of it before you can even think about painting. Two or three coats of a high quality primer, at least, I'd guess. Buy the good stuff.

Yes, always buy the best quality paint that you can afford.

However, paint and primer do two different things. Primers are not designed to cover other colors. They are designed to seal porous substrates, increase adhesion, and prevent bleed-through from stains. They contain more resins, less pigment, and have a lower solids content. Paints have a higher solids content and more pigments, which make them cover better.

Because a paint's ability to cover over another color is determined by its solids content and pigments, look for a coating that has ~50% solids and a truly bright white. The reason the whites are bright is due to titanium dioxide, which makes it cover well. You can take a bright white and give it just a smidge of raw umber pigment for really amped up coverage. The little bit of pigment is unnoticeable, but makes your job a LOT easier.

[ides]

I got about 90% of the black room primed today. I'm going to finish it tomorrow morning when O is at school. O helped a bit then was bored the rest of the time. I used latex Behr dark stain cover primer. With the first coat you can see the black a bit but I think I can follow with a tinted primer then room color. Still haven't chosen a color and I'm not sure if that room will be the extra play room or dhs office.

Regarding the dark grey room, I'm not sure if I should use the heavy duty cover up primer first or not. Here is a pic.

Oh, and for those who haven't seen the black room, here's a pic.

[bobk]

At least the hardwood floor helps offset the black walls a bit. Still pretty hideous.

I'm attempting to paint our kitchen cabinets. They are currently darkly stained (probably done in the 70s or early 80s before the great white kitchen craze). The previous owners left behind a spare door panel, so I'm using it to test. So far I like the color (we're using a more cheery honey), but the brush marks really stand out. DD, do you think using a pure nylon brush and adding Floetrol to the paint will make a big difference?

[diggitydot]

At least the hardwood floor helps offset the black walls a bit. Still pretty hideous.

I'm attempting to paint our kitchen cabinets. They are currently darkly stained (probably done in the 70s or early 80s before the great white kitchen craze). The previous owners left behind a spare door panel, so I'm using it to test. So far I like the color (we're using a more cheery honey), but the brush marks really stand out. DD, do you think using a pure nylon brush and adding Floetrol to the paint will make a big difference?

Huge, HUGE difference. Also, what paint are you using?

[bobk]

Now that it's completely dry, the brush marks aren't quite as bad as I thought. I will change those two things through when I start the real ones. How do you use the Floetrol, pour paint into a separate bucket and mix a little there, or just add straight to original can?

I'm using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Interior.

[diggitydot]

Now that it's completely dry, the brush marks aren't quite as bad as I thought. I will change those two things through when I start the real ones. How do you use the Floetrol, pour paint into a separate bucket and mix a little there, or just add straight to original can?

I'm using Sherwin-Williams Emerald Interior.

I usually pour it into a separate bucket because the extra room makes it easier to mix adequately. You can do it either way. Just make sure you label the can so you remember that it already contains an additive.

SW makes some of my favorite paints. Get the one specifically designed for doors and trims, though. It dries harder than regular wall paint and will hold up better to the kind of wear and tear that cabinets endure. It's expensive, though. Like $50/gal. It's worth the cost. It levels out beautifully and holds up very well.

When you're painting a smooth surface like cabinets, doors, and trim -- slap on the coat of paint, lightly lay it off, and then leave it alone. Don't keep going back into the coating with your brush. It creates more brushstrokes. If there are blobs or drips, you're better off to wait until they dry completely, lightly scuff sand, and apply another thin coat.