I have an issue I hope, DD, you can solve it. There is bright yellow showing through paint (owners) and my coat of primer. It's in a couple of spots under the windows and in one upper corner. I primed over it twice and it shines right through as soon as soon as the primer starts to dry. Do you know what this is or how to get rid of it?
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Painting
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Uh-oh. I have blobs of ugly color coming through my trim. I did some research and I'm 99% sure there's either old stain or or else oil paint bleeding through the latex. Diggitydot told me to use Zinzer BIN (the stinky shellac one) to block it properly and make a decent surface that latex can still adhere to. Here's a pic of one less-egregious spot of mine...
Alison
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If it's an oil-based bleed-through stain, a water-based primer won't do it, or so I understand. It'll just keep seeping through and seeping through. That's why the BIN was the product I bookmarked. :\ It's that or oil-based primer, which I hear is even stinkier and might not provide a good surface to apply latex paint after.Alison
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The BIN worked. I sprayed it on all the spots, let it dry and there was no more yellow. It's totally water damage. The window sills are rotten. The first big thing we will do is replace them. I wouldn't be surprised if some or all of the wall under the windows has to be torn out. Good thing I have extra paint!Wife to Hand Surgeon just out of training, mom to two lovely kittys and little boy, O, born in Sept 08.
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I don't want to hijack but as I proceed with my painting project I *need* some DD input!
When I completely baffled the Home Depot guy by describing my situation, I realized I should have stuck to the Sherwin Williams store or here for advice. Oh, well.
OK, so my house's interior trim reads like a "what not to do" of painting. There are brush strokes. There is roller texture. There is pitiful coverage (wide swaths of the underneath, dark paint tone showing through the slapped-on white trim color). There are drips and blobs and hairs stuck in the paint. There is trim color on the wall and wall color on the trim. There is *something* bleeding through in a dozen areas, shaped roughly like wood knots. And perhaps the most heinous, the newest paint is not adhered to the underlying layer! Now that we've been here 3.5 years, the paint is chipping off in huge stretches anywhere it's seen a lot of wear and even in some places where it hasn't (like, corners I get, doors where animals have scratched at them I get...the middle of the door roughly chest-height, I don't get!)
I think it's pretty clear I need to remove all the white paint, or most of it, and start fresh. I've purchased some scrapers and sandpaper. Home Depot didn't have no-load sandpaper so the guy said I could just shake out a sanding sponge as it filled and then re-use it. I'm skeptical. He also recommended "gripping primer" to make sure what I put on sticks, but was baffled when I asked if stain-blocking primer would do double duty in preventing the bleed-through and also improve adherence.
Diggitydot, can you save me some trial and error here? Do I need to go to a chemical stripper? Do I need to go back to the proper paint store and get proper sandpaper? Do I need to get a proper carbide scraper instead of a little thing that looks like a cross between a putty knife and a chisel? Heeelp!Alison
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Seriously, you're almost better buying new fucking trim. You have several issues that can only be remedied by stripping or sanding down to bare wood, which is a COLOSSAL pain in everyone's ass. And is messy. Crazy messy. Your paint job will only adhere as well as your worst coat. If you have one layer that isn't adhering, there is nothing you can put over the top of it that will make it adhere better.
You can use that white pigmented shellac primer on your trim. It fixes bleed issues AND is one of the best adhering primers on the market. They also sell it in quarts and gallons, along with rattle cans. Just don't use good brushes or rollers because they will be ruined pretty quickly.
You can use the other sandpaper, but it will drive you nuts with the gumming up if you're sanding a latex paint. An oil or lacquer based coating will sand to dust and not gum up the sand paper.
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Here is one for you DD!(Can I stump you...)
We have this BEAUTIFUL original crown molding in our 1930's house so of course its not wood, its plaster! It has been painted WAY to many times and really needs to be stripped and repainted so that you can see the detail. Is there anyway to do that? You, of course, can't take it down...Wife to NSG out of training, mom to 2, 10 & 8, and a beagle with wings.
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Ugh, ugh. We're talking about all the baseboards...crown molding...trim around windows and doors...chair rail...wainscoting...in about 1500 sf of house. And the banisters. (I don't think they messed with the balusters.) Anyway I'm going to start small in a tiny bathroom and see how I do. Fortunately the bottom-most layer is well-adhered. It sits there all pristine and unmarred every time the slapped-on (presumably to stage) white is chipped. >.< So I feel like I only need to go that far, but then I need to fix whatever kept the latex top layer from functioning...I bought a quart of BIN, thanks for the tip not to use my new Purdy brush with it.I swiped some of the SW Extra White semi-gloss from the basement on a hidden bit of trim in that bathroom and it is going to look so great, match the shower liner and punch up the existing pinkish off-white and just freshen the room so much. It'll be worth it...right??
Alison
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